This weekend was only the second time since my return to Korea that I’ve made it outside of Pohang. Along with some friends, I made the journey down to the city of Jinju on Friday night, arriving a little before midnight. We met some friends of my friend for a lackluster get-together, then crashed at a cheap motel on the riverfront. Sounds like a great time, right? Yeah, nothing special so far. It was the next day, however, which made the trip to Jinju so memorable.
While my friends slept the day away, I got up bright and early and set out to explore the town. Jinju straddles the Nam River (남강), with most of the hotels/things to do on the north bank. After going about a few essential errands–money from the bank, coffee injection–I headed to the main attraction in Jinju: Jinjuseong (진주성). Called the Jinju Fortress by waygooks such as myself, this massive walled complex is a reconstruction of a Three Kingdoms era fortress which was instrumental in the Korean defense against the 1592-93 invasion of Japan.
Jinju Fortress is a pretty hard thing to miss. Anyone walking along the north shore of the river is bound to run into it at some point. Visitors approach the east gate, which looms over the cobble-stoned pathway leading up to it. There is a ticketing office, where a paltry 2000 won will get a curious visitor an entrance ticket, guide to the grounds, and city map. Not a bad deal!
After passing through the east gate, the interior of the fortress opened up before me. I’d had the misconception that this would be a massive castle-like building. It’s not. It’s a massive military complex set atop a strategic location overlooking the Nam River. Despite the interior being different from what I expected, the Fortress was far from a disappointment. If anything, it exceeded my expectations.
The first large structure I saw after walking into Jinjuseong is Chokseongnu (촉성누), the pavilion of the Fortress; built in 1241, it is nearly eight centuries old! Used alternately as a command post and a place of learning in times of war and peace, respectively, Chokseongnu has been destroyed and rebuilt a number of times–the most recent construction being in 1960. Nowadays, it sits atop the bluff and accommodates a steady stream of locals and tourists, some there to gawk at the beautiful woodwork and paintings while others are there to meditate and study.
The Pavilion
A good reading spot
Uiam, which means ‘The Rock of Righteousness’
I meandered through the rest of the fortress, which is impressively large considering its location: in the middle of Jinju. At the far western end, the trail arches up to a lookout tower, which gives visitors a wonderful view of the western part of the city and the popular fountain below. Sadly, when I enjoyed the view, the fountain was not functional.
The path to the lookout loops down and brings visitors to the footsteps of the temple Hoguksa (호국사). Formerly the home of a group of warrior monks, it is now a peaceful place dedicated to honoring their memory. This picturesque temple is nestled into the folds of the hillside and girded in a shawl of trees; it is one of the most serene and beautiful settings I have encountered. I briefly entered the temple grounds, but the monks were conducting some sort of ceremony and I didn’t want to cause a distraction by taking a bunch of pictures.
Shortly after I left the temple grounds, I found myself sitting on a bench yet again looking out over the park green. There was an elderly fellow off to my left who was doing the same; we sat there in silence for a good amount of time before my phone started buzzing. It was my friends.
I met up with them a few minutes later and explored the park a bit more, taking in the exterior of the Jinju National Museum–which is inside the Fortress grounds. We didn’t go inside, however, opting instead to leave the Fortress and go stuff our grumbling stomachs with some delicious river and saltwater eels–a Jinju specialty. The eel restaurants line the street along the river just before the east gate of the Fortress. The marinated and salted eel we were served was the perfect end to a refreshing day of exploring. Success!
Our eel restaurant of choice.
Marinated saltwater eel on the left, salted river eel on the right.
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Nice tour. Have you ever thought about becoming a tour guide? Seriously. It’s hard to find a good tour guide in Korea and knowing the history of a place really makes it that much better. How did you find the information about this place when you went? Good old fashioned research?
I guess I could always read the little information thing they have in front of places, but I always get caught up in the poor English translations and mistakes and can never get through it. Also, your pictures are great.
Thanks, man! Hadn’t thought about it before, though I think it’s something I would enjoy. Got a lot of this from the signage and brochures in Jinju, the rest I got the old fashioned way 🙂
Awesome photos. It’s a beautiful place. I’ll add it to my ever expanding list of destinations. I’d also like to try eel sometime
Pretty photos! I haven’t been to a fortress in Korea yet, but this will definitely be on my list. Thanks!
Hallo Nathan!
I ♥ the photos – especially the colourful one of the roof!
I’ve never tasted Korea’s marinated eel, so I’m thinking of tasting it before I leave in a few weeks’ time.
Happy travels ( :
It’s pretty tasty! I’d recommend it.
Where are you heading to next? Back home? Or somewhere new?
Jinju Fortress looks a gazillion times quieter than when I headed there in 2012. Then again, I was there during the Lantern Festival, so I wasn’t really surprised that it had a fair few people walking around it. The fortress really is beautiful, and beats out the ones at Suwon and Buyeo in my opinion (although I do adore the one at Buyeo).
I’ve heard about the Lantern Festival, sounds like a good time. I’m glad I saw the Fortress when I did, I don’t enjoy huge crowds too much.
Haven’t heard of the Buyeo Fortress, will have to check that out sometime! Thanks 🙂
This is one of my favorite fortresses in Korea. A classic representation of the traditional architecture. Some great pictures man.
Thanks, Steve! This one is my favorite fortress… so far.
Wow, it looks gorgeous in the Fall! I went to Jinju randomly alone one winter, and it was gorgeous even then. I’ve had several good friends live in Jinju and everyone loves it! I spent 2 days there and thought it was so charming, it reminded me a lot of where I live now but with more history.
I didn’t know anything about it when I went, I just enjoyed being in the moment, so it was really cool to read all the info. about it! Thanks Nathan!
I’d love to go in the winter sometime, I think it’d be lovely with a dusting of snow.
I’m hoping to bring my friend there when he visits in two weeks. We’ll see if he feels like a road trip!
Those fall colors are so beautiful! You definitely picked the right time of year to visit. Hwaseong Fortress has been on my list for a while now, but I didn’t realize that Jinju also has a fortress. Good to know!
Hwaseong and Jinjuseong are both great, but I prefer Jinjuseong because it’s more separated from the city itself. Still, both are awesome 🙂
Jinju would probably be more convenient for you, as well, so that will be nice!
I agree! I like Jinjuseong more because of it being in a smaller city, and the distance from the city as Nathan said. Hwaseong is awesome to see, but it feels a bit hectic –it may stem from my distaste of Suwon in general, but it just didn’t feel peaceful at all.
Agreed! The fall colors in Jinju are stunning. We arrived in Korea just as the leaves were falling in November, so I’m excited for the colors this coming fall!