The rain started as we walked along the final stretch of the Nakasendo–the ancient Japanese postal road–between the restored Edo-era towns of Magome and Tsumago. Clouds gathered overhead and the air grew thick with the smell of petrichor (thanks for the word, Bijoy!) as the earth prepared to be inundated by the sky.
My friend Brandon and I had no desire to be inundated, so we increased our pace as we grew ever closer to Tsumago. A short distance from our destination, we passed an inn and happened to catch a glimpse of the menu as we did so. Something about it tugged at my memory.
“Dude, I think this is it.”
We looked around the first building, but couldn’t find any signage indicating it was Hanaya Ryokan–our lodging for the night. The rain had started by now, and the intensity of the drizzle was ratcheting up at a steady pace.
Luckily, walking around to the other building revealed that we had indeed found Hanaya Ryokan. We ducked inside and were promptly shown to our rooms as the drizzle became a downpour. No mention was made about us arriving several hours before check-in.
Our room was spartan and immaculate, as are those in most ryokans. The floor was covered in bare tatami mats, save for a small table in the middle. Waiting for us was a pot of tea with two mugs; some snacks were arranged alongside. After a long day of hiking, savoring a steaming mug of tea while the storm raged outside was just the ticket. Within the hour, the storm abated and we decided to venture into town.
While Magome was a lovely town full of well-preserved and restored Edo-era architecture, Tsumago has it beat. Tsumago’s preservation was initiated by the townspeople in 1968; eight years later, the Japanese government designated the town an Architectural Preservation Site. Today, it is one of the best places along the Nakasendo to explore and imagine what Japan must’ve been like in the 17-19th centuries.
Walking along the main thoroughfare, the Terashita, reveals a variety of old, wooden buildings. Many are houses still inhabited by locals, still others are shops selling local souvenirs.
Of particular interest to us was the chestnut flavored ice cream for which the region is know. Actually, it’s famous for chestnuts, but I’m allowed to play favorites; I’m a bit obsessed with ice cream. The chestnut flavored variety here did not disappoint, it was delicious! Pro tip: shop around at a few stores if you want to save (a little) money; some are more expensive than others.
Carrying on through town, we found ourselves walking once more upon a rural stretch of the trail. As we debated turning around, we noticed a sign indicating ‘Tsumago Castle’ a short distance ahead. To turn back or check out the castle? Hmm….
We made the obvious choice and found ourselves traversing some switchbacks leading up a steep hill. Here and there, small signs on trenches and dirt mounds indicated where moats and walls used to be. Each of us got the feeling that the ‘castle’ wouldn’t be much of a structure, but rather more of an empty space.
We were right, but it was still awesome.
The path opened up into a clearing containing a small shack for shelter and a large stone monolith. At the opposite end, the surrounding trees and brush revealed a magnificent view over the valley below. Heavy clouds still dotted the sky as the storm from earlier fled the sun. Flowers bloomed all around, framing the scenic view beautifully.
Check out the panorama below to get a better look at the view. It really was incredible!
We enjoyed a nice rest on top of the hill, soaking in the view. Soon, however, it was time for dinner. Having worked up quite the appetite over the course of the day, we had no desire to miss out on a feast.
And what a feast it was! Sushimi, grilled fish, veggies, tempura, soup, and rice dishes awaited us as we filed into the dining area. The spread was amazing and tasted even better than it looked.
Dinner was not without its discomfort, however. There was an elderly Japanese lady at the table next to us. She spoke no English, and my Japanese vocabulary was barely a week old. Unfazed by the unbreachable language barrier, she labored passionately to blast through by sheer volume of words–blasting bits of food from her mouth in the process. She’d previously tried to engage a Norwegian couple who blew her off after a few minutes, so I resolved to try and give her a bit more time.
Eventually, after another guest with a better grasp of Japanese informed me the woman kept saying ‘1945’, I pieced it together. She was talking about World War II. With that in mind, I was able to pick out ‘Pearl Harbor’ as well. My discomfort level went straight into orbit. I wanted to eat my dinner, not talk about what happened between our two countries 70 years ago. So, I feigned confusion and went back to eating. Seriously though, how would you react to that? Part of me wishes I’d been able to understand more, to actually have been able to engage her in conversation. It might have been interesting. But, it was a much heavier experience than what I like to accompany a meal; I prefer tea.
After our delicious/awkward dinner, Brandon and I decided to explore Tsumago by night. The helpful guest, a woman working for a tour company in England, came along with us. The town was eerily deserted–lit by streetlamps and silent save for the sounds of crickets, the river, and the breeze.
The next morning, we woke to a delightful breakfast. We headed back into town for a brief stroll before we began the long walk back to Magome and onward to Nakatsugawa. It would be several hours and 18 km before we wearily trudged aboard the train bound for Nagoya.
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I <3 RYOKAN! Glad you found a good place there to stay! The food at ryokan is the best! 🙂 I also love petting the tatami. That's right. 😛
I agree, the food was absolutely amazing 🙂 And I’m not too sure what to think about petting the tatami. It DOES feel nice…. 😛
Beautiful pictures! I really need to go to Japan and explore more of the old history. I’ve only been to Tokyo but I absolutely LOVED it – the food especially. Your dinner looks delicious and that panoramic picture is super rad!
I love Japan so much, and your photos and writing about it illustrated the story beautifully. One of my least favorite things in general about Korea and Japan is the constant bringing up of the past as if every person is at fault. It’s history, it sucks, but people need to learn how to not judge everyone based on a country’s f’dupness! Sounds like you handled yourselves nicely though 🙂
I love history, but hate how it colors people’s perceptions of others not even involved in the events. While that woman wasn’t angry or mean (just very emotional), it was a very awkward and unsettling experience. Ah well. It makes for a good story 🙂
Glad you enjoyed the post!
I would have never known it stormed if you hadn’t mentioned it. The photos look great. What a charming place. It’s like you stepped back in time. I’m loving all of your Japan posts. Even though I’ve been 7 times, it makes me feel like it wasn’t nearly enough.
Thanks, Meagan! Seven times?! Now I’m jealous. I absolutely loved Japan, would love to go back and explore more.
Oh man, there aren’t many travel situations more irritating than your awkward dinner encounter. No lessons to be learned and nothing you can do about it, especially when there’s a language barrier.
Awkwardness aside, this seems like an awesome, off-the-beaten-path town. The fact that you had to take an ancient road to get to it makes it even more alluring. Definitely the type of place I would enjoy checking out. Thanks for sharing!
Sorry you had to type two comments, my spam filter flagged your post for some reason! Shouldn’t happen again 😉
Yeah man, both Tsumago and Magome were amazing. A little expensive in terms of accommodation, but more than worth it!
Wow, this was truly amazing! I would love to walk those streets and let my imagination go. I read ‘Snow Country’ at the beginning of this year and it had me trying to imagine what it was like to live in Japan back then. I loved it. The picture of the cat getting a neck scratch was priceless! 😛
Beautiful architecture, natural scenery, AND chestnut ice cream? Apart from the discomfort, this sounds amazing. I’ll be sure to check this out on my trip to Japan. Thanks!
Usually, specialty ice creams are the best way to make me fall in love with a place. So delicious!
I wouldn’t have known what to do about that lady. Perhaps just smile nod and think about that amazingly photogenic cat. Great photos and delicous looking food!
It didn’t occur to me to think about the cat. Next time!
That sucks man about the lady. I know that we’re American and all but can’t they let the war talk go for a moment. Terrible way to make a first impression.
Nice photos though. Really looks nice along that route.
Oh, man, I’m loving that greenery.
Bloody hell, that does sound awkward… It’s always difficult travelling in places that your country has previouslly messed up. I found that hard in Trinidad and Tobago too what with the history of British slavery and colonisation there. I love your photos, particularly that cat and the last one you took at night. The view looks incredible too!
Great recap! I miss this place.