Earlier this month, I made my first-ever trip to Ulsan. It was notable because Ulsan is right next to Pohang and, for some reason, I’ve never been. The decision was spur of the moment, but I had a day free and decided to check out a festival I’d heard about. A blogger friend of mine, the awesome Meagan of Life Outside of Texas, had been the one to write about it and pique my interest. To read her post, click this link!
In addition to a large number of food stalls, arts and craft booths, and other fun activities; the Ulsan Whale Festival has two events which showcase Ulsan’s cultural heritage and whaling traditions. One of these events is the prehistoric re-enactment called Madangnori. Actors dressed as prehistoric folk perform choreographed routines demonstrating courtship and hunting rituals.
Surrounded by straw huts, the men and women spin, jump, and roll while clad in furs and painted for the ceremony. All the while, a shaman directs the proceedings–shaking the skull on his staff as he shouts commands for the tribe to obey.
Suddenly, the dance stops and warriors and women alike stream to the river; a path through the crowd opens and then closes as people crowd behind them. On the river, a whale rounds the bend and spouts a stream of water from its blowhole. The hunt is on.
From their hiding spots among the reeds, two canoes of hunters move to intercept the whale. They close the distance and pull alongside it, one hunter jabbing his spear at its side. The beast wounded, he climbs on top and buries the spear in its back. His companions raise their weapons and cheer; a successful hunt!
After the excitement of the hunt, the dance routine carries on for a bit more. Once finished, I enjoyed exploring the park across the river a bit more. A small grove of bamboo, several gardens of flowers, and a sea of wind-swept grass rewarded me. Behind it all, there was a wonderful view of the Ulsan skyline.
This being my first time visiting Ulsan, I was very satisfied with my visit. Not bad for a short day trip! Thanks, Meagan for the great recommendation 🙂
Pro tip: For those unfamiliar with Ulsan (as I was), the festival provides a free shuttle from the train station. It’s just outside the station entrance; look for the sign!
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This festival seems so unique, the way it appears to be one big dramatic performance. Maybe next year we’ll make it! Great photos as always. 🙂
I love your photos! I went to the festival as well, but I missed the whole performance. I think my favorite picture is actually of the “roasting” bear.
Man, this town reminds me of Jinju in a way with things happening along the river.
So cool to have this festival themed around such an old tradition. Korea has lots of them but this one at least stands out amongst the flowers, drinks, and food. A hunting tradition is very rare to find here.
Thanks for the great post. You’re really getting out in this country. Good to see!
Jinju is another great city. I love the fortress there, such a cool spot to have in the middle of the city.
All hail the river whale! Looks like good times. Nice action shots of the dancers!
Yay! So glad I was able to inspire you to visit the festival. Thanks for the shoutout! haha Your description of the reenactment was far better than mine. Great tip about the shuttle from the train station. I had no idea!
Ulsan is really industrial, but I do love how they how many really great parks we have. You can see my apartment building in your last shot. I actually walk along the river most mornings. It’s my favorite part of living where I do. That park also has a huge poppy field in May and soon the Mexican Asters and hanging gourds will spring up.
Wow, what a great location! I would spend a lot of time in that park if I lived there.
You clearly know more about plants and flowers than I do, haha 😉