The legend goes something like this…
Arslanbob-Ata, a disciple of the Prophet Mohamed, embarked on an ambitiously vague quest to find a ‘heavenly place on Earth’. That journey led him east to a small valley in what is now Kyrgyzstan. Finding the place beautiful, but lacking vegetation, he beseeched the Prophet for assistance. He was given seeds of many kinds, including those for walnut trees. He walked into the nearby hills and scattered the gifts to and fro, planting the seeds for what would become the largest walnut grove in the world–now measuring 11,000 hectares.
By many accounts, Alexander the Great was so taken with the walnuts, he had some sent back to Greece–introducing walnuts to the Western world, where they are sometimes referred to as ‘Greek’ nuts.
Today, the town of Arslanbob bears the name of the inspired traveler, and relies on the massive walnut grove for its sustenance.
The grove is massive and covers the hillsides along the valley. Dirt roads wind through ancient, gnarled trunks while green grass carpets the forest floor. The contrast from the dusty, dry terrain of the non-forested hillsides is stark.
Families either own their own plots of forest or rent one from the Forest Cooperative for periods of up to 5 years. Some families, like my host family, rent their plots of land out to others. During that time, the renters are able to harvest whatever nuts the trees yield.
In September, much of the town heads into the hills for the harvest. Entire families will often go up, setting up a small tent, a cooking pit, and even swings for the children.
Many of the nuts fall to the ground of their own accord, but waiting can be a tedious task. While walking through the forest with another traveler, I heard what sounded like a tree falling. Looking up, we spotted a man at least 20 meters up a tree shaking the branches, causing a deluge of walnuts to pelt the forest floor. His wife and daughter stood to the side, presumably beseeching God for his safety.
I assumed he had some sort of harness–even a rope–but was shocked when he slid down the tree trunk as casually as I used to slide down the 6 ft. pole at the playground. Brushing himself off, he gathered up some nuts and brought them over to us. We thanked him and complimented his insane climbing ability before moving on.
After knocking the nuts to the ground, the harvesters gather them and lay them out on tarps in the sun. This is to dry the nuts, trading a bitter taste for the familiar nuttiness walnut lovers expect.
I learned an interesting tidbit from Abdullajan. Apparently, the Forest Cooperative requires a 5 kg ‘tribute’ of sorts. It’s not uncommon for families to satisfy this requirement with a bag full of undried nuts, bitter and with a little extra water-weight. Sneaky.
- Hiking to Refugio Frey and Beyond - January 20, 2020
- Christmas Letter 2019 - December 18, 2019
- My Walk Out of the Woods - June 30, 2019
A Dose of Friendship in Arslanbob
Wow this is interesting, I had no idea that’s how some people would get nuts out of a tree. I find it quite interesting that they rent out their property. I guess the money from the rent may be more beneficial than the effort it would take to get the nuts down.
Good point! I think more family’s are making money from tourism now as well. The family I stayed with rented out their land and hosted tourists in their home. They seemed to be doing alright!
Whoa that sounds a bit dangerous (and slightly terrifying) – both the shower of walnuts & him climbing up that high without a harness of some sort! Sounds like such a unique and interesting experience, thanks for sharing!
I’m always amazed with the speed and dexterity that locals all over the world can climb their respective trees. Watching guys scurry up palm trees to machete down coconuts was always my favorite!
I love legends like this. Oh Alexander the Great, such an interesting guy. I always wondered how people harvested walnuts, I find it quite impressive.
Me too! I couldn’t believe how quickly he descended the tree. I probably would’ve fallen, and he still would’ve beaten me. haha
This was a cool story and so interesting to see the competitive nature that this cooperative produces. Any chance you got some video of the nuts falling down? I imagine it working like a shower of sorts, lol, but am sure that’s not the case. Anyway, cool think to write about. I love that something as simple as walnuts can stoke the fires of creativity and produce such a great post! Cheers man.
I didn’t get a video, actually. That would’ve been a good one! It was a surprisingly loud sound.
Thanks for sharing, Nathan! I absolutely fell in love with this place, and the donkey! 🙂
Me too! I could’ve stayed there for so much longer ^^
Very interesting! Sounds like a place worth visiting.